Healthy Hair Begins Within...

The most popular questions amongst clients is "How do I grow my hair long?" "How do get healthier hair?"

Good questions, but there are so many myths about healthy hair and hair growth.

Myth #1 

My hair doesn't grow.  Nonsense. Unless your bald or have bald spot then its growing, simply because its attached to your scalp to a follicle that has a blood supply. Question is are you damaging your hair as quick as it grows which would cause you to not see a chang in length. Hair grows approximately 1/4"-1" per month. Example if you never trimmed your hedges in your lawn then they would be quite long, but if your trimming them at least once a month then the hedges always appear to be the same length. So where your hair is concerned, if you are using excessive heat and styling tools or products you can very well be damaging your hair as quick as it can grow.

Myth #2 

Grease and or oil makes my hair grow.  This myth is especially poplular in the African American community, but unfortunately it is not true. Oil and grease have can be lubricants for very dry and brittle hair, but can attract debris and clog the follicle which can slow hair growth. If the hair and scalp is dry opt for a moisturizing treatment weekly to increase the moisture rentention in your hair.

Myth #3  

Braids grow my hair.  Definitely false. What about wrapping synthetic or human hair around your hair do some believe is the magic trick to them growing hair? The truth is hair grows, when braided you don't see it for six weeks or longer. Thus when you remove the braids you can see the difference in growth from before you braided it. Now if not braided properly you can also come out of the braids and still experience breakage. Example, like wearing acrylic nails, your nails are coated and you see them grow, but when to opt to remove the acrylic coating and wear you own nails the tend to break and peel. That's due to lack of oxygen, drilling the nails down with each fill and products used to remove the natural oils from the nails to insure the bonding of the acrylic. Thats why you can see a woman in a weave for 10yrs and when she takes it down she has less hair than when she started wearing the weaves. Thats due to improper techniques, lack of oxygen to the scalp and follicle, and excessive braiding.

Myth #4     

My hairstylist cut all of my hair off and it stunned the growth.  O.K. I hear this one all the time. False. Now I agree their are some scissor happy stylist, but in most case when stylist go to trim ends they don't effectively communicate with the client the amount that needs to be removed versus what the client asked for. I've had clients sit in my chair and mime a visual of how much they want trimmed, but as a professional I will give her the honest truth regarding the current state of the ends of her hair. Once she's informed and can see a cross-section of hair the is well over 2 inches of damaged hair, we are then removing the damaged hair... via cut, trim, however. The fact that it's that damaged it has already began to remove it self by breaking and shedding. Once you remove the dmamged hair then you must committ to regular care of your hair by a professional to prevent futher damage.


I could list more myths but those are the top that I hear frequently.

Simply put healthy hair begins within your body. You hair grows out of your body, so what you put in is what you get out. Don't like your hair, skin, or nails? Change your diet. If your body is not healthy from a fast food diet why would it produce healthy appendages.

Start with:

1. Drink plenty of water. At least 64oz.'s a day. This will hydrate your body on the inside and help with dry skin and scalp. Styling products are only topical.

2. Sleep. Get plenty of rest. Your body heals itself and regenerates when its sleeping, try 7-8hrs at night.

3. Eat plenty of leafy greens. Iron deficiency is the #1 cause of hair loss. If your not eating lots of fresh fruits and vegetables then find some supplements.

4. Become healthier.  Clients that are on lots of medications experience shedding, dry, and brittle hair and some of the drugs had an adverse reaction with chemicals that we use on the hair. Lower your blood pressure and cholesterol, not just for healthier hair but for over all good health.

5. Committ to a regimen.  If you don't have a regular professional haircare provider, find one and ask her to suggest a regimen for your hair based on your budget and level of committment to the care of your hair.

A few items I recommend:
Greens suppliment offers 8 servings of fruits and veggies.
Ardyss Multi Plus
Coral Calcium

Cadiveu Keratin Treatments... why I switched.

So it's no secret that I no longer use the brand Brazilian Blowout as my choice in keratin treatments. As a professional and leader in my industry I feel it is my responsibility to make sure I am offering services, using quality products, and aligning my business with companies that operate in integrity and that I feel are being honest with me.

Who is Cadiveu? Cadiveu is cosmetic company that introduced the world to keratin treatments in 2006. Cadiveu manufactured products for popular brands like Brazilian Blowout in the U.S. Without Cadiveu, there would be no Brazilian Blowout. Cadiveu no longer manufacturers product for this company.

I was introduced to Cadiveu actually by one of my clients, upon my reasearch of the company it began to explain why I was beginning to have mixed results and noticing differences in the quality of products that I was seeing from the Brazilian Blowout brand. Upon my research I was amazed at what I found out about this company. As a professional, I chose to switch over to the company whom which the product originated so that I'm offering services that contain ingredients that are from Brazil and contain the highest quality ingredients. Click here.

Brazilian Blowout is a trademarked brand of keratin treatments, but is a the name of a technique made popular in Brazil. Sort of like me taking the term "press and curl" and going to another country and creating a trademark for it and branding a product behind it. It's known as a service, but made popular by Brazilian Blowout the brand. Smart.

Cadiveu offer several products that I have grown to love. The original Brasil Cacau keratin treatment that smooths, repairs, and protects curly and frizzy hair. Acai Therapy an all natural, chemical free,sugar cysteine based hair smoother which works great on fine to meduim hair adding body, but but can also be used by clients who want no formaldehyde exposure. My fast growing favorite is Nourishing Treatment, in instant intense reconstructor that repairs hair instantly, and offers shine. It's great alone and best ofter a color or relaxer service and I also use it in between my keratin treatments to restore and extend the life of the service.

Good stuff, keratin treatments are becoming more popular but don't be fooled by other companies that will be taking advantage of this revolutionary service by adding the name keratin to their packaging. There is only one quality brand from Brazil, and thats Cadiveu.

Scalp Issues?

Dandruff, Psoriasis, Seborrhea, what exactly is causing your scalp issues. Well first of all let me make my disclaimer. I write this as a cosmetologist, which means I'm licensed to perform hair and scalp treatments, not to diagnose scalp disorders and is only written from my 20 years of servicing clients with disorders and to enlighten you on this subject from my experience.

So what are the white flakes that I can't seem to get rid of that cause my scalp to itch so much? Good question, I hear it everyday in the salon. Although I recognize alot of these symptoms unfortunately in most cases it is beyond my control to treat them. Click here for some photos of scalp disorders

Lets start with dandruff...simply put it is the shedding of dead skin combined with sebum (oils), and debris from styling products. Your scalp is the skin that covers your head and should be cleaned on a regular basis just as you would clean your body. Your body shed skin cells daily and we help to remove these cells by bathing regularly. In African American salons most clients only shampoo when they visit their stylist weekly, bi-weekly, or even longer. The reason is usually to try and maintain styles that they cannot simulate at home. But unfortunately two weeks of dead skin cells become unattractive and carries a foul odor.  Imagine if you didn't wash your feet for, or under arm, or any body part for a week or more, you would definitely experience some dead skin, itching, and discomfort.

Sometimes its confused with dry scalp which can be tight and itchy, but not with flakes. Sebum is a natural oil that your scalp produces. Try messaging your scalp on a regular basis to increase blood flow and production of sebum to help alleviate it, but if you must use oils avoid heavy petroleum based products, mineral oils, and silicones. A good light oil that won't clog your follicles is Mizani's Supreme Oil.

Psoriasis and seborrhea also appear dry, flaky, and itchy but in fact tend to be inflammatory, when lifted off the scalp usually still have a red patch left behind. Psoriasis is more white and scaly and can extend beyond the hairline to the forehead, behind the ears and sometime on different parts of the body. Seborrhea is more yellow and pasty like a thick crust that often bleeds when you scratch to much. To loosen these scale before a shampoo, try a light oil, message, the gently lift with a comb or brush, this will prevent you from breaking the skin. What causes these disorders range form allergies to products, food, vitamin deficiency, hormonal imbalances, and auto-immune disorders. 

Although there is no cure, there are over the counter shampoos and conditioners that will help alleviate the symptoms from shampoo to shampoo but tend to dry the hair out. Scalp Care by Mizani offers the two clinical recommend ingredients to help control the flakes, salicylic acid and pyrithione zinc but also contains ingredients that soothes and balances the scalp without drying out the hair.

I recommend cleansing your hair at minimum on a weekly basis to help keep your scalp issues under control and avoid using heavy products on your hair to mask your flakes. Always consult with a physician for medical advice regarding you scalp issue.

Mizani products are available at Tame Salon www.tamesalon.com

"Baby Hair"... Post Partum Hair Loss

Most women experience a surge in hair growth during pregnancy which is greatly due to prenatal supplements and eating healthier which is where healthy hair begins. Internally, but unfortunately most women also experience hair loss after pregnancy. Although it may seem tragic, relax it comes back. "Easier said than done" right.

Why does this happen?  First, you need to know that their are three phases of hair growth;  catagen, telogen, and anagen. In brief, the catagen stage is the transition stage in which the hair stops growing, and prepares to shed and a new hair forms in its place. Only about 3% of your hair is in this phase at any time and last about 2-3 weeks. The telogen phase is the resting phase, the follicle is forming a new hair in the follicle and releasing the old hair. It can last up to 100 days and about 10-15% of your hair is in this phase and typically hair shedding is 25-100 strands. Now the life span of a hair if 2-6 years. The catagen stage is the active stage in which the cell regenerate and hair grows on average of 6 in. per year. Most of your hair is in this stage at any given time.

So why is hair loss after pregnancy?  During pregnancy, increased levels of estrogen prolong the growing stage. There are fewer hairs in the resting stage and fewer falling out each day, so you have thicker hair.  After you give birth, your estrogen levels drop and a lot more hair follicles enter the resting or telogen phase. Soon you'll have more hair coming out in the shower or on the brush. This unusual shedding will taper off and your hair will be back to its pre-pregnancy thickness about six to 12 months after you give birth. It may seem drastic, but in my 20 years of service I have counseled several women through this time.

Do not run out and get braids or a weave. These styles do not prevent this process, your hair will shed even in the braids and if not combed out properly afterwards will lead to matting and more hair loss.

Do brush your hair thoroughly before shampooing to remove loose hair to avoid matting and tangling. Running water over your hair without removing loose hair will cause the hair to become locked together and increases tangles.

The good new is that it will return and with in 6-8 months and you would have forgotten all about it.

In the meantime don't stress, continue your supplements, and drink plenty of water.

The Edge Stick

Hi everybody, I'm unwinding from the SIBE Hair Show my brain is full. I'm excited, motivated, and ready to take my business to the next level.  But the highlight of the show for me was "the edge stick".  After being in the hair industry for 20 years, someone has finally discovered away for clients to be able to touch up their edges without worrying about burning their hair or scalp with the dreadful pressing comb. Let's be honest, although the "hot comb" changed the industry many years ago, so did the 8-track. While many industries have evolved, it seems that the hair care industry has been moving at a snails pace.

It's been my observation that women put those hot combs in their hair week after week as means to smoothing their hair, when they have no idea what the temperature is and loose hair at an alarming rate.
Now as a professional, I have mastered straightening hair with the ceramic flat iron, but I don't expect my client to be able to duplicate my service. Discovering this "edge stick", now offers a way to retouch your hair line or root area as needed without worrying about burning your scalp or hair. I tried it today at the show and I am definitely loving it.  It's great for on the go, taking to the gym and comes with it's own carrying case.. The edge stick can be purchased online at http://www.tamesalon.com/ or at Tame Salon 323.954.8263

Watch how it workslick here!

The "Beyonce" Effect

So, this topic came up in the salon last week when a new client came in and I was going through a consultation to see what previous treatments she had going with her hair.  She confessed to having colored her hair, but it always comes out reddish, not what's on the box. Hmmm... really! Do you honestly expect to get that color? In fact, unless your dying your hair black or brown, your probably won't reach your desired shade, and if your do, you'll probably miss some spots. But companies will still use celebrities to sell you hair color.
Now if I need a license and advanced education to apply hair color, why does Loreal and Clariol believe you don't. All though they sell millions of at-home-color kits, they don't guarantee results, nor do they use actual models whose hair has even been colored with that actual product.
Some of them wear wigs or the color is computer enhanced to make it brighter and richer. But if your a fan and you want the look they have then that color is as good as sold.
When your ready for some real hair color come see me at Tame Salon.

The Keratin Craze

Keratin... What's the buzz all about?

Keratin is fibrous proteins which is the structural composition of hair, nails, and skin. As it pertains to hair it gives hair its strength. Hair that is lacking protein,  is weak, lacks luster and elasticity, and is brittle, dry, and tends to shed.

Keratin has been around forever, but in recent years new and advanced techniques have been introduced. "Brazilian" Keratin Thermal Reconstructors has been on the scene since 2006. These treatments take a more intense form of keratin that is applied to the hair, dried in the hair, and (heat activated) thermally smoothed with a flat-iron (ceramic or tourmaline). These treatments can last up to three months.

They are not permanent but can have lasting positive effects. It is not a relaxer or straightener, nor does it contain the harsh chemicals that those products do. In fact the treatments that I have used can be used the same day as a relaxer and color to immediately strengthen the hair from these chemical processes.  How is that? Keratin treatments are not caustic. They are non reactive, and do not cause a chemical change to the hair by breaking the bonds. Keratin treatments rebuild the hair and through the thermal process the cuticle is softened and sealed, which eliminates frizz, tangles, shedding, and helps to block out unwanted moisture, which causes hair to revert when exposed to moisture.

Popular treatments have been in the media in regards to safety and exposure to toxic fumes, a brand in which I used to use. Although I had great results, I did have constant question about fumes and consistency in product in which that company couldn't give me solid answers which is important to me.  I was introduced to Cadiveu in Dec. 2010 and after extensive research I found it to be the better choice of product for me and my clients.

Cadivue is the pioneer of Keratin Treatments and is very safe. Unlike other brands it is smoke free, fume free, and has no down time for washing your hair. For more information check out www.cadiveuusa.com.

The Keratin reconstructing treatments are revolutionizing the hair industry and will definitely be around for years.

OTC "Over the counter" Hair Products... Finding the Right Products

Greetings! This is my first blog for this site and I've picked a topic that I feel will stir up a lot of interest. OTC "over the counter" styling products, straighteners, and hair color.  What compels you to purchase these products? As part of my consultation with my clients I find out what they are using at home. Then I ask why. Some don't know why, some say the lady or man at the supply told them it would work. Really, they sell thousands of products, what is the incentive to sell you that one?  Maybe its what the packaging says, organic, miracle growth, super grow, etc. But what they don't take into consideration is the pre-existing variables the may alter and prevent the desired results and or cause damage.

I once had a client that insisted on coloring her own hair and came in to salon every 8 weeks for a haircut. Every single time she came she would have so much discoloration from missing areas and choosing the wrong formula for her hair. One time she came in and it was purple. I asked what color were you aiming for, she said it was on sale at the local drug store and was labeled eggplant brown. Well I don't believe that it was meant to be a bright violet, but as a trained colorist and knowing that her hair is 70% white, that their was not enough natural brown pigment in her own hair to offer the results. But the box didn't ask her about her natural color, it just says mix and apply. I often hear people say "I put this color on my hair and it didn't take". The problem is not the color its the person applying and choosing to use a product that may not be suitable for that client current or prior condition. 

When choosing products consult with your beauty professional, and when it it comes to chemical save yourself time, money, and hair by leaving a professionals job to a professional. Your thoughts are welcomed.